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In the mirror, I can see myself in huge gilded pantaloons, visible just for my eyes. Kids play in a rock pool acting as mermaids, meanwhile nearby rests a talking pea in a display case, alongside a tall stack of bedding. It represents the universe of the beloved author (1805-1875), one of the nineteenth-century's widely adored storytellers. I find myself in the city of Odense, situated in Funen in the southern region of the Danish kingdom, to investigate Andersen’s lasting influence in his birthplace 150 years after his passing, and to discover a couple of enchanted tales of my own.

The Museum: The Andersen Museum

HC Andersens Hus is the town's exhibition space dedicated to the writer, including his childhood house. A museum representative states that in previous versions of the museum there was minimal emphasis on Andersen’s stories. Andersen's biography was explored, but The Ugly Duckling were absent. For tourists who come to the city seeking storytelling magic, it was somewhat disappointing.

The redevelopment of the city center, diverting a primary street, made it possible to reconsider how the renowned native could be honored. A major architecture competition gave the Japanese company Kengo Kuma and Associates the commission, with the innovative curatorial vision at the center of the structure. The unique wooden museum with interwoven spiralling spaces debuted to great fanfare in 2021. “Our goal was to build a place where we avoid discussing the writer, but we communicate similarly to him: with wit, irony and viewpoint,” explains the representative. The outdoor spaces embrace this concept: “It’s a garden for explorers and for large beings, it's planned to make you feel small,” he notes, a goal accomplished by strategic landscaping, playing with elevation, proportion and many winding paths in a surprisingly compact space.

The Writer's Legacy

The author penned several autobiographies and regularly changed his story. The museum embraces this concept fully; typically the perspectives of his companions or snippets of written messages are displayed to subtly challenge the his narrative of incidents. “The author is the guide, but he’s not reliable,” notes the curator. The effect is a fascinating swift exploration of the author's biography and work, mental approaches and most popular tales. It’s stimulating and whimsical, for grown-ups and children, with a bonus underground imaginary world, Ville Vau, for the children.

Visiting the Town

Back in the real world, the compact town of the municipality is picturesque, with stone-paved roads and historic timber buildings colored in bright colours. The writer's influence is all around: the street signals display the storyteller with his signature top hat, bronze footmarks give a no-cost Andersen walking tour, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Each summer this commitment reaches its height with the regular Andersen celebration, which celebrates the his influence through art, movement, theatre and melodies.

Recently, the seven-day festival had 500 shows, the majority were free. During my time in Odense, I come across colorful performers on stilts, fantastical beings and an writer impersonator telling stories. I experience empowering poetry and see an incredible nocturnal display with graceful performers coming down from the town hall and dangling from a mechanical arm. Future activities in the coming months are talks, hands-on activities and, expanding the oral history past the author, the city’s regular wonder event.

Every excellent magical places deserve a castle, and the island boasts over a hundred manors and stately homes across the island

Pedaling Through History

Similar to much of the country, cycles are the perfect means to navigate in the city and a “bike path” winds through the downtown area. Departing from Hotel Odeon, I cycle to the free port-side aquatic facility, then beyond the city for a circuit around Stige Island, a small island joined by a bridge to the primary land. Local inhabitants relax with food here following their day, or appreciate a quiet hour fishing, aquatic activities or swimming.

In town, I eat at a local eatery, where the food selection is based on author-inspired concepts and stories. The verse the national ode is highlighted when I visit, and owner the host recites passages, presented in English, as he presents each course. Such encounters repeated often in my time in Odense, the local residents enjoy storytelling and it seems that storytelling is constantly offered here.

Manor House Visits

Every excellent magical places need a palace, and this region boasts over a hundred manors and stately homes throughout the region. Going on excursions from the city, I explore Egeskov Castle, Europe’s finely maintained Renaissance water castle. Despite parts are open to visitors, the castle is also the family home of the aristocratic owners and his partner, Princess Alexandra zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg. I ponder if she might sense a small legume through a mound of {mattresses